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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I was going to finish my brake job on the other front side and had rounded out lugs so I never got the wheel off.
so i was going to just go get some tools and discovered I have no brakes. So I got out and put fluid in as it was really low. Brakes went back to the floor after a few pumps.
Got under car and I see brake fluid has sprayed out. As soon as someone gets home I will have them pump bakes while I look. I cant figure out how to do it by myself yet.
Ok so when I find the leak will it be in a rubber hose? Or are they metal?
I guess what I need to do is look at a diagram of the brake system.
If someone knows of a link I would appreciate it. I found a couple of posts but nothing that helped yet.
Thanks to all Rick
1997 ZJ
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You've really just gotta get under there and find out. It could be in a rubber hose.
But since you are in MD, it is more likely that the rusted hard line ruptured. Meaning you will need to swap those out. If you do your own work, now is the time to redo the entire system. I paid about $150 for prebent 304 stainless steel brake hardlines for my wrangler, I would imagine you could find something comparable. Alternatively, you could just bend your own preflared lines by hand which will put you in the $40 range for plain steel.
You should just get everything up to date at this point. If one line is ruptured, the rest probably aren't far behind (unless you hit a tree branch that broke it or something).
Do new hoses on all 4 corners (the rear may share one single hose depending on layout). change brake pads and shoes. If you have rear drums, get new wheel cylinders, they are very cheap and greatly reduce the difficulty in changing the lines when the old ones are disposable.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank You Mike.
That is exactly what I would like to do. We dont have the funds right now but I will. I have hundreds of old audio items for sale on ebay so they will eventually sell and I will get brake money for my 97 ZJ
I was so happy to get the front cv axle replaced I probably hit a branch in the woods as I was hauling logs
I will in the meantime be looking for a brake diagram so I can figure out where the lines even run. I have never tried to repair the brake lines so I better start reading and researching how to do it.
Thanks again
Rick
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If your brakelines is oe and has the steelcover over it then the only way to fix the leak is to replace the line.
You can cut it but because of the steelcover it will be almost impossible to flare the line and mount a splice for the new line to start.
You could splice it but it may or may not hold.
I can tell you its not a good feeling when you absolutly need to stop and the pedal hits the floor with minimal braking done..
The parkingbrake on a ZJ does almost nothing to slow down a ZJ.
That was on mine with rear drumbrakes where the parkingbrake is using the regular brakeshoes to hold it.
I would imagine that its even worse on one with rear discs and those tiny shoes for the parkingbrake ( if they even work?)
You still have atleast 2 wheels braking for you (untill the brakefluid is gone) but with one broken line most pressure gets out that way.
If it is a rubber hose that leaks then if you can afford it replace those with steelbraided hoses instead.
If not then rubber is just as good, the ones on yours are probably the ones since 97 and they do age so it would be a good idea to replace them anyways.
But as long as its leaking brakefluid dont drive it and keep an eye on the level in the mastercylinder, you dont want that do go dry and then letting air in the ABS unit.
The brakeline from the mastercylinder to the rear goes along the left side framerail.
Here is how the lines are routed on a 97 ZJ
Front:
Rear:
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Just follow the line down from the master cylinder... no diagrams needed - just a flashlight. Take each one off, bring it to the parts store and get the appropriate length preflared and the unions you will probably need to connect them. This isn't rocket science, but take your time, brakes are important. When you're done make sure you bleed them well, I've come to like the 'mighty-vac' bleeder that harbor freight sells, it makes it a one person job.
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Yeah, brake routing's pretty simple. One hard line from the master cylinder to each front wheel, one hard line to the back axle which goes to a junction block that splits off to each back wheel. Just follow the lines. My bet's that it's the hard line going to the back.
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You'll essentially cut the old brake line off at the proportioning valve and at the caliper/wheel cylinder. Then use a 6 point socket to remove the nut. Plug each hole with rubber so your brake fluid doesn't drain out of the system. Keep each line nut separate from each other in little baggies, label them. Measure the length of each line and write it on the baggie that contains it's corresponding hardware. You'll then take them to autozone, NAPA, wherever and get something like this (have the cashier find the correct line for you with the correct flare and correct nut): http://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-...armour-brake-tubing/216143_0_0/?checkfit=true
buy new with DOT-3 brake fluid for around $8.
make sure the bleeder valves open on your calipers and wheel cylinders. Wheel cylinders probably run around $4 a piece on rockauto, and calipers run around $25. which is why I usually suggest just swapping them out for new ones.
When you install the new lines, you'll just put the small sharp bends in by hand to match the line you pulled out. You'll probably need to bend and unbend a bit as you work them into the vehicle through the nooks and crannys.
Brake hoses need to be replaced at 8 years anyway, you are probably overdue. stainless steel braided is really good for offroad strength, but they are all rubber on the inside anyway.
Your first time could take around 8 hours. So be prepared to spend some time.
Like mentioned above, the bleeders are really nice. Alternatively, you could just buy new autobleeder valves for your calipers and wheel cylinders. These one way valves let you pump fluid through until the bubbles stop.
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
WOW! great suggestions. This forum is just great:grin2:
Wife has gone to river for weekend as its 82 degrees here for a couple of days so I will be reading all of this and then give it a try. Snow expected in a day or so so wait till next week. crazy weather
Thank you all so much seeing and hearing all the suggestions has me almost feeling like I can do it. I completed the front cv axle and this site gave me the confidence to finish...so now its time to learn brakes....what the heck Im retired I have time.:laugh2:
rick
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
coralman you have provided more info then I have ever seen!!!
:highfive:
Thank you for taking the time to do all this research. This is incredible. Things I have wanted to know how to do and now I may be able to give it a try.
Have a great Jeep day!:grin2:
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Your welcome Rick! Its good to be appreciated!
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well I found the leak thanks to all the advice and diagrams.
I am going to attach a picture of where I found the leak. It looks like there is a yellow clip that pulls out to expose the connection of the braided hose to the rubber hose.
Is it possible that once I remove the mount that holds the line I could disconnect right there and try to fix leak?
the leak seems to be coming from the side closest to the engine right at the connection like it was loose. It is just as noted by others.... rusted pretty bad
it looks like the hose to replace (if thats what i have to do} starts at the master cylinder and goes to the rusted connection where I found the leak.
I have a 50$ off coupon coming from advanced auto so I will check them out first.
Can you buy that connection in the picture and replace that?
I know one thing I will have to abandon repair today as all of a sudden 50 mph winds and 33 degrees light snow flurries this morning and no power.
Everything is back online now but there has been a very unfriendly wind chill factor of 20.....I will be reading the tons of info you all have provided..
Hope everyone has a great day
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
cant seem to get picture uploaded sorry
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I can't remember, but you might need 50 posts before you can upload a picture.
Which wheel is the leak at?
sounds like you need one new pre-flared hardline (in the correct length) and one new rubber brake hose. Then you don't have to mess with rusty connectors.
you REALLY need to consider replacing all lines and hoses though. If one is rusty, the rest are not far behind. Once you make this repair in the sub arctic weather, you'll gain a lot of confidence and be ready to go for the rest of it when good weather comes
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Get a photobucket account and paste the img link in the message text.
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Get a photobucket account and paste the img link in the message text.
He's only got 10 to go
Go to one of the 'general discussion' forums and chat and make some new friends, then come back and post the picture!
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If you have one hard line that let go, the rest are not far behind. Do youself a favor and order the complete stainless prebent line kit from Classic Tube. Their products are works of art - include all the OEM style rubber flex joints, every single brake line including the little ones from the master cyl to the ABS module, correct bubble-flare ends to the ABS module and double-flare everywhere else, and also include factory-style spiral armor. You really don't want to lose your brakes on the road. Just replace all of them and be done with it. I used their kit on mine and it was great. Wish I had just bought it first instead of making one rear line myself, only to have one of the fronts fail 6mos later.
http://www.classictube.com/with-abs-13664.html
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I can't remember, but you might need 50 posts before you can upload a picture.
Which wheel is the leak at?
sounds like you need one new pre-flared hardline (in the correct length) and one new rubber brake hose. Then you don't have to mess with rusty connectors.
you REALLY need to consider replacing all lines and hoses though. If one is rusty, the rest are not far behind. Once you make this repair in the sub arctic weather, you'll gain a lot of confidence and be ready to go for the rest of it when good weather comes
You are right all needs to be replaced...when i am under the jeep its rust city. I have been using a wire brush and lube to try and get a look at each part and replace asap.
The leak is on the left drivers side towards the back. right where the two hoses clamp together. the3 connections are pretty rusty and i would like to replace them. thanks to all the links provided i can get what i need to make it drivable as I need to haul some hay real soon.
i need so many parts for this jeep that are rusted but I have to take my fathers advice and "do one thing at a time" As most of you can tell I have several projects going on and I am a very unskilled mechanic. I am sure I am very confusing as I dont know what I am talking about ...YET! :nerd:
So as I wait to afford a large drill bit for the bad lugs. I am starting to work on the other vehicles with parts i already have. The 1977 Kubota b7100 keeps me busy and I just cant thank that forum enough for the help I have received. (orangetractortalks.com)
So today it is wind chill of 16 and I am going outside to work on my ZJ 5.2 monster. I love this vehicle:grin2:
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
If you have one hard line that let go, the rest are not far behind. Do youself a favor and order the complete stainless prebent line kit from Classic Tube. Their products are works of art - include all the OEM style rubber flex joints, every single brake line including the little ones from the master cyl to the ABS module, correct bubble-flare ends to the ABS module and double-flare everywhere else, and also include factory-style spiral armor. You really don't want to lose your brakes on the road. Just replace all of them and be done with it. I used their kit on mine and it was great. Wish I had just bought it first instead of making one rear line myself, only to have one of the fronts fail 6mos later.
http://www.classictube.com/with-abs-13664.html
Wow that brake line replacement kit has everything. That is what I would like to do but I cant yet. It says 284$. for the 97 ZJ 4wd. That company seems to be about perfection in their kits.... I may be in better shape to afford that in a month or two.
Ill start the line replacement as soon as I drill out the bad lugs and can get to the brake rotors and pads. Sure would like to do it all at once though....well see.. how it goes.
thanks
Rick
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Get a photobucket account and paste the img link in the message text.
Hey Shadow I am going to try that photobucket thing if I can keep my eyes open a little longer... thanks
Rick
Source: https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/brake-lines-are-leaking-need-diagram-for-brake-lines.3693473/
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